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When curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.